A Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata
![A Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-29.jpg?resize=747%2C201&ssl=1)
For my birthday I wanted to do something different this year, in the sense that instead of having a gala lunch or dinner with my family I wanted to have a grand breakfast. Talking about breakfast what could be better than a gala Chinese breakfast in the heart of our grand old city of Kolkata.
Kolkata has a long history of Chinese population who had come here during the British India and permanently settled in India. In this city which they call it home has also taken them as a part of the city just like the Marwaris, Armenians, Jews etc.
A portion of the Chinese population is Kolkata resides around Tiretta Bazar and one can find many Chinese temples in this locality also. Every morning especially weekends a group of Chinese food sellers sets up temporary shop just behind Poddar Court selling some delicious and sumptuous Chinese breakfast.
One needs to reach early at around 6.30 AM to find these being served, this continues till around 8.30 AM on weekends as there is no hurry for them to clear the space which is a parking lot for office goers on weekdays.
Location of Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata
![Location of the Chinese Breakfast](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-28.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Early morning this whole area is an open market and not only Chinese breakfast but one would get to see varieties of daily fresh products being sold. Vegetables, fish, chicken, fruits etc. are sold here and no these are not sold by Chinese.
Coming back to Chinese breakfast you will be spoilt for choice, so without wasting much time let me show you the spread for the day.
Steamed Dumpling (Momo)
Requires no introduction, you get them with pork, chicken or fish. This little steamed snacks is served in a plate with clear soup and sauce.
![Steamed Dumpling (Momo)](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-1.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Steamed Dumpling (Momo) Being Sold at Tiretta Bazar](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-2.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Fried Dumpling (Momo)
FInstead of steaming the dumplings these are deep fried and very crispy. Tastes best with sauce and some soup.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 4](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-4.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Fish Dumpling Soup
In a bowl of clear soup some fish dumplings are added, tastes best when eaten piping hot. Add some sauce to make it spicier.
Pork Dumpling Soup
Similar to fish dumpling but I prefer to have this more as it tastes awesome.
Fried Pork Wonton
Similar to that of dumpling the only difference is in the shape otherwise tastes similar.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 3](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-3.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Shrimp Poori
This I guess is a fusion dish, take an Indian poori and add a shrimp in between.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 5](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-5.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Chinese Sausages
This thin sausages are very fatty and one can see the globules of pork fat in them, even though being very fatty these are a must have.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 6](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-6.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Pork Pau
It’s a bun which looks white from outside and is quite tasteless but it has a surprise filling in between which makes all the difference. You need to have some sauce along with it to make the buns spunkier.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 9](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-9.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Fish Pau
Similar to prok Pau these have a fish filling, have them when they are steaming hot to enjoy the rich fresh taste.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 8](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-8.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 7](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-7.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Noodle Soup
This is a typical noodle soup, lots of green vegetables along with stock and some noodle. Try this on a winter morning and your day will be made.
Rice pudding seasoned with sesame seeds
These are like a sweet sticky pudding with a generous layer of sesame seed on top. Keep this for the last and take a few of them back home for a quick bite when you feel hungry later in the part of the day.
![Rice pudding seasoned with Sesame Seeds](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-10.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Sweet Stuffed Buns
Not sure if these are authentic Chinese dishes but you do get them here, Riana loved them. These are buns with a sweet felling in between.
Sweet Crispy Buns
Again not sure of its Chinese origin but quite enjoyable crispy sweet bun.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 11](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-11.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Pork Rolls
Need I say more??? Pork wrapped and fried with a slight crispy outer layer, you will get the fish variety also.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 12](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-12.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Potato Pork Chops
These are also deep fried items, with a potato and pork fillings.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 13](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-13.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Chaang Yuan Paan (Vegetable Dumplings)
Just like the meat version these are for the veggies.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 14](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-14.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Ham Choi
The word “Ham Choi” literally means salted vegetables. For an experimentation these are a must.
![Ham Choi](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-15.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
Dried Ham Choi
Similar to Ham Choi but these are dried versions.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 16](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-16.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Khwai Choi Pan (Vegetable Pancakes)
– Pancakes with a vegetable fillings.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 17](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-17.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Mee Kao Paan (Beef Balls and Rice Dumplings)
A good filler, you can add on some soy sauce for that extra flavour.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 18](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-18.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Sweet Rice Zung
Prepared by steam these are glutinous rice with different kinds of stuffing and served with a bamboo leaf cover.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 19](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-19.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Meat Zung
Similar to Sweet Rice Zung, these have a meat filling.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 20](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-20.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
Red Roast Pork
Finding this was a real luck, I was busy having my Pork Pao when an elderly Chinese gentleman approached me. Seeing the camera around my neck he knew I was there to experiment on food so he asked me if I had seen the movie Enter the Dragon. On confirming he asked me if I remember a scene in which a pig is being carried and roasted over an open fire, another nod from me. Then he whispers to my ears and points to a man sitting on a pavement with a bag and indiscreetly handing out a brown packet wrapped in a newspaper in exchange of money, “he is selling that, you must try it, you will not get that anywhere else in this country my friend”.
And there I buy for 100 Indian Rupees a packet full of Red Roast Pork, it has been smoked whole night on a charcoal fire and light woody smell reconfirms that. The skin now brownish red in colour is crisp like potato chips and the meat and fats have a perfect tender feel.
Have it with bread and you will know what I am talking about. Just remember that it only sells in limited quantity and sells out within few minutes, so arrive early and keep looking around to spot these guys.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 21](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-21.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 22](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-22.jpg?resize=680%2C470&ssl=1)
So you know where to have your next Sunday breakfast, remember to taste most of the dishes if not all to get a complete feel of a Chinese Breakfast. Keep in mind that there will be Chinese as well as non-Chinese sellers so make sure you are buying the authentic Chinese breakfast.
A special thanks to Robert Hsu for helping me to decipher some of the Chinese names and helping me to write this blog in such details.
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 24](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-24.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 25](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-25.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 26](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-26.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
![Chinese Breakfast in Kolkata 27](https://i0.wp.com/indianvagabond.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/chinese-breakfast-in-kolkata-27.jpg?resize=680%2C473&ssl=1)
I like the urban explorer in you who finds and showcases unique perspectives of seeing our mundane city
Thank you… feel happy to share all the known and unknown parts or our crazy city… 🙂
That was just up my lane and I enjoyed every morsel (word).
BIG Cheers Subba.
Jasii
Thanks so much Jassi Ji
Nostalgic, mouth watering, and a feast for the eyes as well. Happy belated Birthday!
Thanks Richard… Will go again and add more to the list…
Hi Richard,
Can you please tell me if Ms. Jennifer Huang, formerly of Eau Chew, Kolkata, lives near Toronto?
For many years, I have been trying to do some research on the old style of Calcutta Chinese cooking, which came in very distinct strains, e.g. Peiping vs. Waldorf.
I found a gentleman, a restaurant owner near Washington, D.C. Sly Liao, who has a brother in law somewhere in NYC who is an expert chef from the old style.
There is NO NELSON WANG in my universe, the man who sold spiced pakoras in tomato ketchup as Indian-Chinese.
Fish balls in tomato sauce, a lovely dish as prepared by pre-Punjabi ownnership PEIPING, was the closest to the WANG model of Indian Chinese, that I have been able to discover in Kolkata.
In Chinatown, large dried shrimp, and shrimp in general would be prepared with red rice, wine lees or with red/fermented tofu. Quite rich, sweet and deep red, but never any ketchup!
How do you remember the cooking you grew up with?
Thanks in advance for your inputs.
Hope you had a great birthday. I can see you treated yourself to some mouth watering dishes 🙂
O yes… A real good time with family and some food 🙂
Having a grand breakfast is an amazing way to celebrate your birthday …! Happy Birthday 🙂 Great post and amazing pictures ..
Thanks Arun… More such unique celebrations will follow in terms of a blog 🙂
Looking forward to it .. 🙂
oh my .old city of my old CALCUTTY .remind me my young age couple of boys used to play around thank u..
Nice article with amazing photos. I have been to this place once with my family during our visit to Kolkata .Who doesn’t like Chinese? I loved the hot steamed momos; they taste just amazing with the spicy sauce offered along. My kids just loved the rice pudding and sweet crispy buns.
Absolutely incredible description! Mouthwatering yet very practical and up to date! Great Job and thanks for sharing!
Thanks Sandip… more such coming soon 🙂
Very informative .. I am planning to go kolkatta and was look for some info on Teritta Bazar. This is a best article I have gone through .
Thnx a lot dear for posting map to exactly pin the location …..
My pleasure 🙂
Wow. I have been wanting to try this out like forever now…
Subhadip, Tangra also shows in google search, is it the same place which you have written about. I am visiting Kolkata in Jan 2018
That one is the new China Town