Once there was a French cemetery in Calcutta (Kolkata) but now that is sadly not preset anymore. So, my next bet to explore the French connection of Bengal was obviously the town of Chandannagar which in this blog I will keep referring to as “Chandernagore” which was known back then.
Weekend travel during pandemics has its disadvantage since most of the tourist places are either shut or don’t have any official information about reopening. While most churches are still open for mass but it’s not the same for visitors especially when it comes to Cemetery.
For me to visit the French Cemetery in Chandernagore it took me three unsuccessful attempts and then I had a full proof plan that is to visit it a day before All Souls Day knowing very well that the cemetery will be open for pre-cleaning activities. This bet paid off and finally, on my fourth attempt, I found the gates to the French Cemetery in Chandannagar open. This cemetery is also referred to as the Sacred Heart Cemetery since this cemetery is part of the Sacred Heart Church in Chandannagar. The church is also the custodian of this property.
Location of French Cemetery in Chandannagar
The cemetery is located right opposite Lal Dighi which is a large lake. Fort d’Orleans was located right behind this Lal Dighi before being destroyed during the siege. Nothing remains of that fort but the reference of this Lal Dighi and the cemetery can be seen in earlier maps. This fort was raised to the ground by Robert Clive in 1757.
History of French Cemetery in Chandannagar
According to the marble plaque installed inside the cemetery the date mentioned is 1696. The French came to this part of Bengal in 1670 and along with them came missionaries. At one point there were three churches in Chandernagore managed by various sects like Capuchins, Society of Jesus, and the Jesuits. Thus you can say that this cemetery is primarily a Catholic cemetery. However, some Protestants were also buried here which can be found on the left side of the cemetery as you enter from the main gate.
What to see at French Cemetery in Chandannagar
The cemetery has recently been restored. Not all the old tombs and graves have been restored but selected few important ones have been restored while the rest of the cemetery has been cleaned up and pathways built around the cemetery.
One has to agree that quite a few of the tombs are in urgent need of repair as the outer plater layer has completely come off. While some of them have been dangerously tilted due to a weak foundation and soft soil.
As you enter the cemetery you will find newly installed marble plaques and the pathways that have been dedicated to saints and other important personalities. Keeping with the tradition the pathways have been named in French like “Rue Mother Teressa”, “Rue Radhanath Sikdar” etc.
Some Important People Buried at Cemetery in Chandannagar
How To Visit French Cemetery in Chandannagar
This place is located not far from the rest of the tourist locations in Chandannagar and if you are traveling with your vehicle then there is ample parking space right outside the cemetery. If you have reached this place by local train or bus then the best way to go around the town is using a hired e-rickshaw.
Location of French (Sacred Heart) Cemetery in Chandannagar on Map
Sources
Bengal, Past And Present: Journal Of The Calcutta Historical Society 1908