“Hello you must be Mr. Shankar Ukil”, this is how I was greeted when I reached Dum Dum to photograph and document Clive House Dum Dum. Perplexed I kept staring at the middle-aged gentleman who extended his hand to greet me. I had no words to exchange as I tried to handle my mirrorless in one hand and action camera in the other. He understood my predicament and again asked if I was Mr. Shankar the lawyer who resides behind the old house. I clearly understood that he had mistaken me for someone else and politely told him that I was not the lawyer that he was searching for. He then started asking me what I was doing out here with a camera in hand.
The reason I started this blog on a lighter note was that as a travel blogger especially in India it is a very difficult job. With a camera in hand, people assume you to be from a newspaper and start to ask counter questions. This is surprisingly more prevalent in the city suburbs than in rural villages.
In this blog, I am taking you to perhaps the oldest house in Calcutta (Kolkata). Some research dates back before the British when Portuguese or Danish traders were populating this region.
History of Clive House
The building was not built from scratch by Lord Robert Clive as per many records there was a building in Dum Dum which was built on top of a mound. Over time the size and shape of the building changed but there was a structure that could have either been a factory or for that matter a grand house in itself.
The importance of this building and its association with Clive come during the campaign of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah taking over Calcutta in 1756. As we all know by now that Clive sailed from Madras (Chennai) and landed somewhere in Budge Budge and slowly gained ground lost to the nawab.
This dating is important since this proves that this building in some limited form was there even before 1756. If that is to be believed then this does make the oldest house somewhat still standing in Kolkata.
As the forces of Siraj ud-Daulah were retreating Clive kept up the constant attack and suppression. Siraj ud-Daulah’s army had a camp somewhere near Sealdah and Clive flanked them from the left during this, he had crossed Dum Dum Road and passed the house built on top of the mound.
It is to be noted that this house was also captured by Siraj ud-Daulah thus in the offense Clive had to secure this house also. With its height advantage and probably the biggest house in the region, Clive felt it was fit to be his residence.
One of the major changes that Clive did was to add another floor making it a two-storied house. Apart from this, the house was strengthened in terms of security as well as foundation stability. Additional rooms were also built to make it a very comfortable residence.
Apart from adding to the structure of the house he also had gardens built around the property. Keep in mind that at that time Dum Dum was far outskirts of the city limits but somehow Clive seemed to have loved these surroundings.
Clive had his stint in India twice as after his first posting he went back to England and then again returned. On both, the occasion Clive had stayed in this house in 1757 – 1760 and 1765 – 1767.
The House After Clive
Surprisingly a few years after Robert Clive left India for the last time the house was auctioned off by East India Company. An advertisement was put out in the year 1774 and the two-storied house along with garden was sold off.
While writing this blog I was reading about the life of Clive, especially after his return to England and later on France. Some within the administration had questioned the opulent lifestyle of Clive and the extravaganza especially when it came to his lifestyle back in India. Some even questioned his source of income which if we calculate in today’s value would be around 4,200,000 Pounds. Could this be one of the reasons why the company hurriedly wanted to sell the property after Clive left India?
There are no records as to who bought this house however later some records seem to suggest that in the year 1880 Dum Dum House which was located on top of the mound became the residence of the Cantonment Magistrate. Thus, it can be safely said that by then the house was just referred to as Dum Dum and any direct reference to Clive was not present.
Also, another interesting fact that can be found on records is that the Dum Dum house previously was owned by Mutty Lall Seal from Colootola in Calcutta. Mutty Lall Seal (1792 – 1854) back then was a rich merchant but it is clear that the house could not have been purchased by him as during the auction he wasn’t even born at that time. He belonged to a business family and his father was also a famous cloth merchant. So, it could very well have been his father who had acquired this property in the auction.
Mutty Lall Seal was known for his philanthropic activity and had opened many schools, colleges, bathing ghat, almshouse, etc.
From Dum Dum House to Clive House
Early in the twenty century, the British rulers suddenly realized that it was the right time for them to showcase their glorious past and started promoting their previous Governors-General, Viceroys. Looking at the history of the Dum Dum house it was started being referred to as “Clive House”.
A marble plaque was installed mentioning that the house was the residence of Clive during his two stints in India. Unfortunately, this plaque is nowhere to be seen now.
At one point this also functioned as the local ration office and all hell broke loose when refugees started using this building. They occupied both the floors and every nook and corner possible.
Clive House Now
The occupation of the house by refugees had an adverse effect with no restoration or repair work being carried out for decades. Ultimately the top floor collapsed so did most of the rooms on the ground floor.
Only on the front face do you find some portions of the upper floor. The main ballroom on the ground floor is now roofless but the grandness can be understood by the remaining round pillars. All around the ground floor you can see wood beams that once were used as support for the roofs.
Some rooms have been restored by the Archeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle but complete restoration work has not been carried out. There is a local office of ASI just right of the building but I did not see any activity which might suggest some work is going on.
Then there are squatters all around the back and side portions, they are using one side of the wall as part of their swelling and causing further damage. The authorities are trying to settle for some sort of rehabilitation for them so that this structure can be restored from all sides.
Location of Clive House on Map
Clive House Vlog
Resources
J. C. Price’s Notes on the History of Midnapore (1876)
Bengal: Past and Present, Vol-81, Issue no 151, 152
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Archeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle
Narrative of a journey through the upper provinces of India, Volume 2 By Reginald Heber
Calcutta, past and present by Kathleen Blechynden
The Telegraph
Times of India
Other Related Blogs
Delhi Gate Arcot
Locating Fort Budge Budge And Fort Makwa Tana