After Murshidabad and Cossimbazar this will be my last in this series and this blog, I will take you to some of the finest terracotta temples that can be found in this region. We will explore the terracotta temples of Baranagar. You can easily cover Baranagar in a day along with Koshbag and Rosnaiganj. On the way, there are a few more temples that you can also visit which I will explain at the end of the blog.
How To Visit Terracotta Temples of Baranagar?
Baranagar is on the other side of Murshidabad town across the Bhagirathi River so you need to cross the river and here comes the challenge. If you have a car and want to visit these places then you can only cross the river at Berhampore as that is the only place that has a bridge for vehicles. This also would mean that you have to take a long detour to cross the river. On the other hand, toto’s can cross the river on makeshift boats with a bamboo platform which would take around 2 to 3 minutes. But keep in mind the top speed of toto is 20 KMPH which would also mean a slow journey and it would take significant time to cover these places.
Where To Stay in Baranagar?
Tourists usually stay in Murshidabad if not then at Berhampore. But there are some new hotels also available at Azimganj and you can try these out also.
Short History of Terracotta Temple and Baranagar
The history goes back to the 1750s when a queen named Rani Bhabani decided to build 108 temples here. She wanted to rival the glamour of Varanasi in terms of the temple and financed the construction of all the temples. The reason why she did is that after the death of her husband Raja Ramakanta Moitra who was the zamindar of Natore (now in Bangladesh) she took over the zamindari and prospered. She devoted herself to a lot of philanthropic work and thus as a part of that she wanted to build temples.
It is said that she built around 107 temples here. She was a devotee of Shiva thus in most of the temples around here you will find a Shiva Linga.
Terracotta Temples of Baranagar:-
Panchamukhi Shiva Temple
The first temple that we will visit is the Panchamukhi Shiva Temple. As the name suggests Panchamukhi means five faces thus the Linga which is placed in the temple has five faces of Shiva. This is a functional temple and one of the most well maintained. The fresh coat of paint makes the temple look neat and clean but one must be careful about terracotta as layers of paint often cover up the finely detailed work overtime.
This is a do-chala temple with a look almost that of a traditional hut of Bengal.
Vlog on Panchamukhi Shiva Temple
Char Bangla Temples
This is the most famous set of terracotta temples in this region. In terms of design these four temples each have their unique flavor and together makes this place a must-visit destination. These temples are dated around 1755 A.D.
Temple 1
We are going anti-clockwise and this would be the first temple. The best way to identify is the look for the broken wall which is located right behind this temple. On the side, you will find a Shiva seated on a pedestal.
If you are looking for some of the finest terracotta work then this is the temple where you will find them all over the front panels. The panel above the central doorway shows the war in Ramayana with the ten-headed Ravana in a fierce battle with Rama.
All around you will find panels of Durga, Kali, and other goddesses. The lower panels depict battle scenes and don’t be surprised to see some panels wherein the soldiers are carrying rifles.
Temple 2
The second temple also has some terracotta panels but there are not as detailed. This temple has more motifs and flower patterns all around the front. Two rows are leading from one side to the top and then to the other side having panels of God and Goddesses.
Temple 3
This is the simplest in terms of design. Only on top of the doorway, you will find some circular patterns and the rest only plan square embossed terracotta tiles. This looks somewhat incomplete as if the panels were meant to be filled with more designs but were somehow repeated with a similar pattern.
Temple 4
This is very different from the rest three temples out here. By the looks, you can make out the white color finish instead of the red terracotta of the other three temples. This is because this temple has a fine lime plaster and all the designs are etched in these fine layers of plaster. The fine detailed work is something that needs time to be appreciated.
Vlog on Char Bangla Temples
Bhavaniswar Temple
This was also built around the same time as the Char Bangla Temples by Rani Bhavani. Being a devout Shiva follower this is another Shiva temple. The temple has a dome architecture with arched open gateways in all directions. This temple also features a plastered ornamental design instead of red terracotta panels.
Vlog on Bhavaniswar Temple
Two Shiva Temples Next to Rajrajeswari Temple
Within fifty meters from Bhavaniswar Temple is the newly built Durga Temple (Rajrajeswari Temple). Right next to this temple you will find two smaller terracotta temples. These are now in a much-dilapidated state and not worshiped any longer. By the looks of the outer face, it can be made out in some portions that these also had similar lime plaster with ornamental designs.
Vlog on Two Shiva Temples Next to Rajrajeswari Temple
Gangeswar Temple
The next temple is popularly known as the Jor-Bangla temple and this can be attributed to its design. Visually this looks like two temples have been built together sharing a common wall in between them. This is another classic terracotta temple.
The terracotta panels are on one side of the temple and depict various ways of life, daily work, the life of people, battles, and Gods and Goddesses. Watch out for the panels depicting Krishna Leela.
Vlog on Gangeswar Temple
Apart from these, I would recommend you to visit one more temple which originally was a terracotta temple and along with that on that way you can visit Dahapara Dham.
Kiriteswari Temple
This temple is located in Lalbag (Nabagram) and you can visit this while going towards Baranagar from Koshbag. This is a very famous Shakti Peeth. The original terracotta temple was destroyed around 1405 and one can still see the remains of it next to the newly constructed temple where the shrine was moved. All around the temple you can find other newly built shrines.
Vlog on Kiriteswari Temple
Dahapara Dham
Let me make it clear that this is not a terracotta nor does it have historical significance. The reason that I am mentioning it here is this temple will fall on the way and you can just relax and stroll around this newly constructed temple and hear the devotees sing kirtan (religious songs).
Vlog on Dahapara Dham
Location Of These Places on Map
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