The monsoon was relentless this year and even to the end of September, it had been raining nonstop. We planned to spend three days in Sasaram with one day dedicated to visiting Rohtasgarh Fort. The only complication was the nonstop rain and that would indirectly mean the already damaged roads getting more precarious. Luckily on the last day, the rains had decreased a bit and we took our chances to visit the citadel of Rohtasgarh.
How To Reach Rohtashgarh Fort?
Sasaram Junction is the nearest big railway station that sees a lot of train traffic passing through. If you want to reach by plane then your best option will be Gaya airport.
Rohtasgarh Fort is located on top of the hill which is a part of Kaimur Range and located around 83 kilometers from Sasaram.
There are two ways in which you can reach Rohtasgarh Fort. You can do a day-long trek/trail and climb up to the top to go around the fort complex and find your way back down the same way. This can be a seven-to-eight-hour affair so it’s not for the fainthearted and would need some level of fitness.
The other option is to go by car but here too there is a condition. Due to the bad condition of the roads which mostly comprises mud roads and some sections having rough stone laid paths you need to have a vehicle with a good ground clearance. The choice vehicle for this would be a Mahindra Bolero or Scorpio.
Another option is to use a motorcycle but here also it’s better to stick to a 100 to 150 CC variant. Anything heavier especially a Royal Enfield 350 or above will sink into the muddy slushy ground. But if you have a Royal Enfield Himalayan and have good riding skills then this can be a perfect adventure ride.
By vehicle, the ride can be between three and a half to four hours each way. The ride to the top is very scenic so keep half an hour extra for unscheduled stops.
Food And Water At Rohtashgarh Fort
The reason I added this information at the very beginning of the blog is because nothing is available on top of the fort. There are some lonely shops around the villages that you will cross but those shops are limited to basic household items. At the entry gate of the fort, I found one shop selling some chips of some unknown brand with unknown origin that too the shop was closed as the shopkeeper opens and closes the shop depending on his whims.
Do carry water bottles as the fort area is quite a large area to cover and it’s highly recommended that you keep hydrating yourself. Carry light snacks which would help during those sudden hunger bursts. Off late I have started carrying small candy bars and protein bars which are very compact and can easily slip inside the pocket.
Short History Of Sher Shah Suri
To understand the historical context, you must know some key pointers. Sher Shah Suri was born in Sasaram around 1472 – 1486. He had an unhappy childhood and it is aid to have often been tormented by his stepmother. He left his home and went to Jaunpur to join the services of Jamal Khan who was then the governor of Jaunpur.
His father Hasan Khan did not approve of this and had requested Jamal Khan to send his son back. Around 1497 Hasan Khan managed to convince Sher Shah to start managing his Jagir. He was very successful in this and had managed to show excellence in governance.
Around 1518 he left his position and moved to Agra and soon had to return due to his father’s death and the Jagirs managed by his father were bestowed to him by Ibrahim Khan Lodi of the Delhi sultanate.
In 1526 the Delhi sultanate was taken away by the Mughals (Babur) from the Lodi. During this power vacuum and transition Behar Khan Lohani (Sultan Muhammad) came to power in Bihar and following this along with him Sher Shah went back to Agra to meet the Babur.
After the death of Behar Khan Lohani, he continued to be in his province which was later governed by the widow of Behar Khan. Around 1530 when Dudu Bibi the widow died he became the ruler of this region.
In 1532 Sher Shah lost control of Chunar Fort (which he had got by marrying the widow of the governor of that region) to Humayun. A compromise was reached and Sher Shah declared his allegiance to the Mughal ruler.
By 1538 Sher Shah had taken over the Bengal (Gauda) and Humayun in support of the Ghiyasuddin Mahmud Shah marched to Gauda. But by the time he reached the city was completely looted of its treasures. He then moved back to Bihar and his next target was the fort of Rohtas which he acquired and became the place where he had stored up all the riches of the loot of Gauda.
History of Rohtasgath Fort
The earliest history of Rohtasgarh Fort which is very well documented is along with Sher Shah Suri and after him however, historians often link this fort to be named after Rohitasva who was the son of King Harishchandra. The only recorded and oldest link that we find of this place is from King Shasanka of Bengal (Gauda) dating back to the 7th century. A rock seal found here bears the inscription “Mahasamanta Shashankadeva“. Post this period the fort was with Hindu rulers of various dynasties.
If you search online for “Rohtas Fort” then do not be surprised to see the listing of the fort in Pakistan. The one in Pakistan was built by Shar Shah Suri while the one in Sasaram was an existing fort that was captured by him.
Sher Shah retreated to Sasaram and sought the help of Hari Krishan Rai who was then the ruler of Rohtas. Around 1538 Sher Shah requested the king to grant refuge to the women and children along with the valuables at Rohtas fort while Sher Shah would get back to conquer more territories from the Mughals.
This was a trick and was a type of Trojan Horse. The palanquins which were supposed to carry women and children were initially true to his request but behind them hidden within the palanquins were trained soldiers of Sher Shah. With the presence of soldiers already inside the fortified walls it was much easier for Sher Shah to capture the fort.
After the death of Sher Shah followed by the fall of the Suri dynasty the fort was captured by the sultans of Bengal. This did not last long as the fort again changed hands to the Mughals (1576).
Under the rule of Akbar, the fort was given to Maan Singh (1587) who was a general in his army to govern Bihar. The fort remained with the Mughals until their final defeat to the British.
A lot of construction that we can still see now was constructed by Maan Singh like the palaces, temples, etc. Even though the construction was carried out by Muslim architects a lot of Hindu design and architectural influence can be seen here.
What To See At Rohtasgarh Fort?
When travelling by car you will cross two large stone gates and be sure to stop out here and see the plaque on top of the fate written in Sanskrit and Persian on the first gate. The second gate does not have any plaques.
As you approach the fort you will see some remains of fortification walls and other small buildings which are mostly in a dilapidated state. The first major structure that you will see out here is the mosque which was built by Haibat Khan in 1543. He was a trusted general of Sher Shah.
After that, you will reach the main gate of the palace compound. Be sure not to miss the water tank on the right just next to the gate.
This is not a ticketed monument and the main gate remains closed but there is a small opening in the gate which is large enough for anyone to enter. There is supposed to be a deputed guard who has a key to the gate but just like the lone shop out here, it all depends on his wish and mood to come and open the gate.
As you enter you will be in a large open area directly facing the palace compound (Mahal Sarai). Walk towards the right to see the grand gate (Hatiya Pol) with two stone elephants on either side.
Past the gate, the first building that you will see is the Baradari or the public hall. A small doorway from here will take you to the main courtyard which is surrounded by various structures.
If you are a bit adventurous then take the gate towards the right of Hatiya Pol and after walking around five hundred meters you will find an old Shiva temple to your right. A further two hundred meters from here you will find the Ganesha Temple on your right. If you walk another three hundred meters ahead you will reach the south gate. From here you will get a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding hills of Kaimur Range.
There is no electricity out here so you will not have any mobile cell phone signal (September 2023). This means if you do not have pre-downloaded maps on your smartphone it won’t work. Navigation around the fort complex and the temples will be difficult unless you download offline maps. If you do now know how to do this then please search online there are numerous resources to guide you.
Another piece of advice will be to start early around eight in the morning so that you reach the fort around midday and after spending a couple of hours start your way back by two in the afternoon. Since this fort has very few visitors and also considering the desolate roads back to the nearest town it will be safe to be back before evening.
Where To Stay In Rohtasgarh?
As of now (September 2023) there are no hotels or guest houses or for that matter tourist rest houses here. Your best option would be to stay at Sasaram which is a big town and you will have many options. We stayed at Hotel BNS International which I would say is very safe, and clean, and add to that the attached restaurant makes delicious food.
What To Eat In Rohtasgarh?
If you are a sweet lover then just don’t miss trying out the Khurma. It’s a fried chena slightly heard and dipped in sugar syrup. If you are an avid nonvegetarian then try out the various mutton dishes that are available here, especially Champaran Mutton.
Location Of The Fort On Map
I travelled to Sasaram as a part of Wiki Loves Monuments documenting the various historical places in the state of Bihar along with Amitabho Gupta. Additional information regarding the trek trail to the Rohtasgarh Fort was obtained from Rangan Dutta.
Other Blogs On Bihar
Kumhrar Excavation Heritage Park
Places To Visit Around Bodhgaya
Golghar – Patna
Barabar Caves – Day Trip
Dungeshwari – Mahakala Cave Bodhgaya
Resources
The Magnificent Hill Fort of Rohtas, India by Catherine B. Asher & Frederick M. Asher
Journal- Of Francis Buchanan by C. E. A. W. Oldham
Roahtas District – Government of Bihar
Mahabodhi, or the great Buddhist temple under the Bodhi tree at Buddha-Gay by Alexander Cunningham
Cornell University Library