Nalanda Mahavihara and Rajgir have been on my radar since 2019, especially after covering the city of Bodh Gaya it was the obvious next destination. I and my friend had planned the itinerary and were about to go on this trip in 2020 but things changed as you all know and the pandemic struck. The trip was put into the backburner and it was not until 2023 that this trip finally happened. By then I had changed my job and industry so it was the same itinerary but no friends this time.
To make it more interesting I decided to drive to Nalanda and Rajgir from Kolkata. This was the very first time that I was going on a long car trip instead of my usual bike trips. The trip was planned for a layover for a day at Ranchi and then driving towards the town of Rajgir.
History Of Nalanda Mahavihara
Writing an in-depth history about this place would be a sin since there are enough materials already available online that will give you a detailed history of this place. I will just add a few key pieces of information that would help substantiate the rest of the information in this blog post.
- Established during the reign of Kumaragupta I (415–455 CE) of the Gupta empire around the 5th century
- Expanded by other Gupta rulers (Budhagupta, Tathagatagupta, Baladitya, and Vajra) between the 5th and 6th centuries
- Post Gupta period between (550–750 CE) it again flourished during the rule of Harshavardhana of the Pushyabhuti dynasty
- Famous Chinese traveler Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) visited Nalanda between 637 and 642 CE and spent almost two years here
- Another famous Chinese traveler Yijing arrived in Nalanda in 673 CE and spent almost ten years at Nalanda
- Nalanda continued getting support from the Pala dynasty (750–1200 CE), especially under Dharmapala and Devapala
- Destroyed (burnt) by the troops of Muhammad Bakhtiyar Khalji in 1200 CE
- Francis Buchanan-Hamilton between 1811–1812 surveyed this site
- Major Markham Kittoe in 1847 established the link between the famed university of Nalanda which was now in ruins the previously surveyed site
- Alexander Cunningham conducted the first official survey of this site under the umbrella of ASI (Archeological Survey of India) between 1861 and 1862
- Between 1915 and 1937 extensive excavation of this site by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI)
- Major restoration work was carried out by ASI between 1974 and 1982.
- Recognized as a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 2016
What To See At Nalanda
The major attraction at Nalanda is the ruins of the Nalanda Mahavihara (ancient Nalanda University). Even though the total space occupied by the ruins is huge the actual prime attractions are a few sites within the excavated area.
In total, there are nine monastery sites out of which two to three need detailed tours while the rest of the monasteries are just very similar to each other and can be quickly seen.
There are four temples that one can visit here out of which one of them is the prime attraction. Apart from these, there are a few shrines scattered all around the excavated site. The remains of many other structures can still be seen in terms of their foundations and pillars.
All information mentioned below has been taken from the information plaque at the excavated site.
Monastery No. 5
As you enter from the main path from the ticket counter taking you towards the excavated site the first site that you will see is Monastery No. 5. This will be on your right-hand side. This monastery shares space with Monastery No. 4 located right behind.
This monastery was on a plan an integrated part of or annex to Monastery No. 4 with which it is connected through a large staircase descending from the south-east corner of Monastery No. 4. It has undergone four stages of construction; its northern and southern arms have three cells each whereas the eastern arm has two rows of eight cells each.
Some of the cells in the front row are connected with verandah while a few others ate through corralled doorways. Cells of the back row have no entrance either from the cells in front or through the rear boundary wall of the building. It is probable that such entrances once existed but were blocked later on. Otherwise, they perhaps served as stores for grain and were entered through the roof above.
Significantly, there is no shrine attached to this monastery as is usually the case. Based on antiquarian finds it appears to have been constructed during the Gupta period, contemporary to the adjoining monastery No.4.
Monastery No. 4
Now you have come inside the excavated area and all around you can see remains of temples and monasteries. Right in front of you would be an open area that has scattered remains of different buildings.
Monastery No. 4 being right behind Monastery No. 5 would be your next stop.
This monastery is almost square in plan having two phases, the latter constructed over the ruins of an earlier one. The staircase exposed at the southwest corner suggests that the earlier monastery was at least double-storied. The later monastery contains twenty cells for the monks. It has a shrine in the middle of the eastern arm, a teacher’s platform in front of the shrine, an open courtyard with residential cells all around attached to a pillared verandah, a well in the courtyard, drainage, entrance towards the west, and staircase at both the levels. The provision of a ventilator for the skylight near the staircase and the provision of beds in a few cells are special attractions of this monastery.
Monastery No. 1
This monastery will be located on the left-hand side as you enter the excavated site. This monastery has an extended section referred to as No. 1A and No. 1B. This is the largest monastery out here and it is highly recommended that you go around this section as there is a lot to see here.
This site was the first to be excavated by ASI at Nalanda and perhaps the most important of the monastery group. Apart from yielding the largest number of finds such as seals, stone and metal images, terracotta beads and plaques, stone and copper plate inscriptions, etc. It revealed a monastery that had undergone nine phases of construction divisible into two chronological segments.
The original construction seems to have been raised in 6th-7th century CE and the process of its rebuilding continued till the declining days of Nalanda. The small shrine in the courtyard belongs to the Gupta period while the oblong shrine close to it and the two chambers on the northern high wall having corralled entrances and vaulted roof are later additions.
The lower monastery, of which the cells are seen near the entrance on the west and along the southern and eastern sides, is believed to have been constructed by a king of Sumatra during the reigns of Devapala, the third king of the Pala dynasty (810-850 CE) as is stated in a copper plate inscription found at the north-west corner of the entrance.
The monastery consists of several cells with a wide verandah in front, originally set around an open quadrangular court, but later on separated from it by a high wall. It was at least double-storied as evident by the staircase at the south-west corner. Some of the cells have revealed the existence of still earlier monasteries underneath as indicated by concrete pavements.
The upper monastery has 34 cells containing bed platforms for monks and shelves for keeping books and valuables in the corners of a few cells. It had an entrance towards the west approachable through a massive flight of steps. The evidence of the destruction of Nalanda by fire can be noted in a few cells as stucco images placed in the niches of the portico.
Temple No. 3
Right next to Monastery No. 1 (A/B) is the most famous and recognizable monument of Nalanda. The image of this temple is used as a reference in books when someone mentions Nalanda Mahavihara.
This is the most imposing structure in comparison to others and has seven successive phases of construction. The first three phases of construction were small and concealed. The four later integuments that can be seen over the surface are much more extensive structures. The three different staircases that can be seen on the north belong to the fifth, sixth, and seventh phases respectively.
The fifth phase is the most interesting and best preserved. Based on art and architecture, the fifth phase has been assigned to 6th century CE which contains beautiful stucco images of Buddha and Bodhisattvas placed in the niches on the exterior walls of the temple. Decorative solid towers were erected at four corners but only two are now visible.
The sixth and seventh phases are further enlargement in dimension by way of concealing the earlier structures. Contrary to the general scheme of other temples at the site this temple is facing north. The shrine chamber atop once contained a colossal image probably of Buddha as indicated by the pedestal herein. A large number of votive stupas and miniature shrines have been added around this temple by the devotees at different points in time. A chariot-shaped shrine near the South-East corner and the panchayatan temple close to it have been exposed in recent excavations.
I would suggest giving a full circle of the temple so that when you go to the back you can see the votive stupas and then see the back portion of Monastery No. 1 (A/B)
Now we return to the entrance and go towards the next monastery.
Monastery No. 6
This structure has the evidence of erection of a later monastery over the ruins of an earlier one. It contains brick-paved courts at two different levels with pillared verandahs and cells all around. Each level has thirty-two cells, a shine, a well, and west west-facing entrance. There are two shrines in the lower courtyard but only one in the upper. A feature of interest is the two sets of double ovens in the upper courtyard which might have been used for community cooking or some practical demonstrations to the students.
Monastery No. 7
This monastery has been excavated in such a way that three successive monasteries built over the ruins of earlier ones on the same plan are easily distinguishable, the central court of the upper two phases is concrete paved whereas that of the earliest one is brick paved also contains a shrine and an oven, other features like entrance towards West, stairs at the South West corner, shrine chamber in the middle of the Eastern arm, pillared verandah, etc. are usual. Although the well has not been found it might be buried under an unexposed portion at the northern half.
Monastery No. 8
Similar to other monasteries this one also has common features like an entrance on the west, a central court with verandah all around and cells for the monks, well, a shrine in the middle of the eastern arm, etc. Two features are peculiar in this monastery, first is the imposing central shrine facing west with a court in front and the second is the door lintel preserved to its original height in a cell at the south-east corner. This technique of doorway with dentil cornice is only one unique example now preserved at Nalanda. Wooden lintels have been replaced with modern concrete lintels for the sake of conservation. Two levels of occupation can be seen in this monastery also.
Monastery No. 9
This monastery is almost similar to other monasteries in size and plan containing thirty-four cells meant for the hostel for monks. The court contains a well, six ovens, and a drain at the northeast corner for disposal of water. The shrine chamber in the middle of the eastern arm, entrance towards the west, staircase at the southwest corner, and provision for skylight near stairs like in Monastery No. 4 are some common features of the monastery. One room was created by blocking the northern and the western verandah and having a corralled door seems to be added later.
Monastery No. 10
This monastery is almost similar to others in size and plan and contains usual features like an entrance from the West, central court, shrine chamber, verandah, court, cells for monks, staircase skylight provision, etc. A few features are uncommon and worth mentioning, first is the arched door opening of rooms which can be seen in the southern half of the western arm. Secondly, this monastery had postern doors on either end of the eastern arm opening in the east which were blocked in a later phase and the third is a massive wall in place of pillars can be seen at the north-east corner of the verandah.
Besides a platform-like structure with stairs raised at the southwest corner of the court and a cistern-like structure interiorly veneered with flagstones neat the southern postern door is also peculiar. The monastery contains two phases of construction.
Monastery No. 11
This is the last monastery in these rows of monasteries here at Nalanda.
Conforming to the general scheme of other monasteries, this one also has features like a central court, and pillared verandah all around. Thirty-one rooms for monks, provision for skylight and staircase at the southwest corner, a shrine in the middle of the eastern arm, and entrance towards the west. The fragments of stone pillars of its verandah still standing at their original position are worth mentioning. The height of the veranda would have been a little more than two meters which can be inferred easily by the beam holes in its wall near the staircase. Well has not been found in the court and the shrine chamber contains a circumambulatory path.
On the opposite side of the monasteries are three large temples (No. 12, 13 & 14). Temple No. 14 is located extreme north of the excavated area.
Temple No. 14
This temple resembles Temple No. 13 to a great extent in dimension and features. It faces east on an almost square high platform with a pillared porch in front of the sanctum and circulatory path at two levels. The outer wall shows two periods of construction. The earlier has decorative brick moldings, niches pilasters, etc. whereas the layer is almost plain. The sanctum has been narrowed in a later phase by adding blocks of brick interiorly. Remnants of the colossal stucco image of Buddha may be seen on the pedestal. Signs of painting have also been found in the niches of the pedestal which are decayed considerably. What can be seen now are the figures of a lion and a deer only.
Temple No. 13
Conforming to the features of Temple No. 12 this temple is also facing east and is constructed on a raised platform having a sanctum at the center with a porch and circumambulatory path all around. It is approachable through a flight of steps from the east. The exterior wall contains niches, pilasters, decorative brick moldings, etc. In the early phase whereas the later phase is almost plain. A colossal stucco image of Buddha was installed in the sanctum remnants of which can still be seen on its high masonry pedestal.
Temple No. 12
Having two phases of construction, this temple is quite attractive and grandiose from an art and architecture point of view, The later phase has been created over the ruins of the earlier one on the same plan. The exterior of the earlier temple is decorated with pilasters, ornamental moldings, and niches for containing stucco images whereas that of the later one is mostly plain. The temple facing east, is built over a raised and almost square platform measuring 52 X 50 meters. Approachable through a flight of steps. The main temple stands at the center of the structure whereas four corners are occupied by four subsidiary shrines which still contain the remnants of stucco images on the pedestal. Its first phase corresponds to the fifth phase of the temple on the pedestal. Its first phase corresponds to the fifth phase of Temple No. 3 and is datable to the 6th century CE from an art and architecture point of view.
Shrines
On the north and south of Temple No. 12, you will find the remains of one shrine on each side. You will be able to find some remains of carved stone structures inside them.
Temple No. 2
For me, this was the most interesting temple since this temple still has some of the best-preserved stone works. To reach this temple you have to come out from the lane connecting the main gate to Monastery No. 5 and take the left lane to reach this temple.
This temple is a little different from other temples of Nalanda in general character and architecture and not conforming to the schematic layout of the site, It is almost square in plan, each arm measuring about thirty-two meters externally and having two phases of construction.
Square sanctum measures five meters and has five meters five-meter-wide circumambulatory path approachable through a flight of steps towards the east. An interesting feature of this temple is the symmetrically arranged row of two hundred and eleven sculptured panels over the beautiful base moldings veneered with stone.
On either side of the entrance, there are twenty panels whereas the remaining three sides have fifty-seven panels each. Images of gods and goddesses, Jataka stories, scenes from day-to-day life, human figures, animals, birds, kinnaras, geometrical motifs, etc. have been beautifully depicted therein. The pilasters intervening between the panels are decorated with a pot and foliage design and surmounted by interesting arches based on characteristic features of art and architecture, it has been assigned to the 7th century CE.
Buddhist Temple (Sarai Mound)
The excavations conducted in the year 1973-74 by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) on this mound have revealed the remains of a multistoried Buddhist temple. The east-facing temple has a porch in front of the sanctum flanked by the side walls having decorative niches, pilasters, and beautifully carved bricks. There is a six-meter-wide circulatory path all around and provision of a staircase at either end of the eastern arm.
The temple premise was protected by a massive enclosure wall which is studded with the remains of a large number of votive stupas and miniature shrines, Feet portion of a colossal stucco image of Buddha in the sanctum standing on a huge pedestal made of stone blocks suggests that the image would have once been about eighty feet high. Specimens of murals belonging to the Pala period found in the niches of the pedestal in the sanctum are also worth mentioning. According to an inscription found in the excavation, this temple was erected during the reign of Purnavarman in the early seventh century CE.
Nalanda Museum
There is a very small museum located right opposite the main gate. Even though the museum is very small and the number of exhibits is very limited the reason that I am asking you to visit is because most of the original stone sculptures from the Nalanda excavation site are kept here for display. In addition, you will get a lot of information and references about this place.
Photography inside the museum is not permitted but you can click a photo of the exterior of the museum. This is a ticketed museum.
How To Visit Nalanda Mahavihara Excavated Site?
This place is very popular and can be easily reached from Rajgir and Nalanda town. From any of these places, you can get an e-rickshaw to reach this place. If you are reaching this place by a private or hired vehicle then there is ample (unofficial) space to park your vehicle near the main gate. Vehicles are usually parked parallel to the edges of the road. Don’t be surprised if you are handed a parking fee ticket of Rs. 20 (October 2023) with some obnoxious name of the agency but anyway at least you get to park your car (somewhat) safely.
This group of monuments is under ASI (Archeological Survey of India) and is a ticketed monument. Apart from the regular entry ticket you do not have to pay for photography but videography with a mobile/DSLR/Mirrorless/Action Camera is chargeable costing Rs. 25 per device. Commercial photography requires a special permit and attracts higher charges. Usage of a tripod is not permitted so is the use of a drone, for these you would need special permission from the tourism ministry.
As you enter you will be swarmed by guides who will approach you by showing off their official guide ID cards. Honestly, no one can vouch for the authenticity of these ID cards nor do these guides possess any in-depth knowledge of the site. Their usual approach would be to quote a price of Rs. 100 to Rs. 300 promising to cover every corner as long as it takes. In reality, they would just take you inside and give a brief overview of the place and take you to two to three of the monuments inside and then take you to the place where there is a map and ask you to explore the rest on your own. I have even heard one guide telling a family that the only thing to see out here is the ruins of the main temple and the rest they can ignore.
I would suggest reading online articles beforehand as hundreds of articles and blogs have more in-depth information about this place and download the layout map which also can be easily found online on your mobile to help you navigate around the different sections.
The nearest railhead is Rajgir but this railway station does not have good connectivity, unlike Gaya or Patna. The nearest airport is either Patna or Gaya.
Nalanda can also be reached by car from Gaya or Patna and is perfect for a day trip adventure.
Where To Stay?
There are some hotels near the actual Nalanda excavated site but there is a better option in Rajigir which lies around 15 kilometers from here. During peak summer the temperature can soar thus do opt for air-conditioned rooms.
Staying arrangements are better in Gaya and Patna when compared to Rajgir so that can also be an option.
Location Of The Nalanda Mahavihara Excavated Site On The Map
References
Archeological Survey of India
UNESCO
Nalanda Museum
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