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Son Bhandar Caves

Son Bhandar Caves

Who does not like treasures especially me since I had this fascination that one day, I am going to discover a treasure trove while researching for a blog post. Honestly, I still have that feeling and when I heard about this place called the Son Bhandar Caves which means a storehouse of gold, I was ecstatic. I have been exploring caves around this region for some time and it all started with the Barabar Caves. Although both the caves have some degree of similarities it would be unfair to compare them directly.

History Of Son Bhandar Caves

Historians have managed to get some indications as to the origin and the dates of these two caves all thanks to an inscription found here.

Muni Vairadeva, the jewel among the acharyas and of great luster, caused to be made the two auspicious caves which are worthy of ascetics and in which were placed the images of arhats.

These can be found written in Gupta characters and from the above inscription we get the name Vairadeva a Jain monk. Historians put the construction of the caves to around the 4th century AD.

(Top) Plan Of Son Bhandar Cave (Bottom) Section Of Son Bhandar Cave (Courtesy The Cave Temples of India by James Fergusson & James Burgess)
An Old Photograph Of Son Bhandar Cave – Circa 1880 (Courtesy The Cave Temples of India by James Fergusson & James Burgess)

Alexander Cunningham assumed this to be of Buddhist origin and was the Sattapanni cave where Buddha supposedly spent his last days. 

What To See At Son Bhandar Caves

There are two caves out here that one can explore. There is a bigger one and a smaller one. The large cave is to the left and the smaller one is to the right.

Entrance To The Son Bhandhar Cave Complex
Son Bhandhar Cave Complex At Rajgir
Entrance And Window Of The Main Bigger Cave On The Right

According to historians, the main larger cave is very similar to that of Karna Chopar cave that can be found at Barabar Caves. The main cave has a dimension of thirty-four feet in length and seventeen feet in width. Similar to that of Barabar caves the walls inside the main cave also is polished to some extent. The quality and finish of the polish are not that of Barabar Caves which have a more mirror-like finish.

From the floor the plain semi-polished walls rise to six feet and nine inches after that they raise another eleven feet and six inches to the top of the ceiling.

Carved Patterns On The Wall Outside The Main Cave On The Left
Wall Calligraphy Outside The Main Cave In Rajgir
Headless Figure Can Be Seen On The Outside Wall
Interiors Of The Main Cave With The Door On The Left
Interiors Of The Main Cave With The Door On The Right
Wall Patterns Inside The Main Cave
Wall Patterns Inside The Main Cave

One of the unique features of this larger cave is that it has a small window cut approximately three feet in height and width which can be seen towards the left from the main doorway.

Another unique feature of this cave is that it had an extending verandah which can be made out by the series of square holes on top extending from one end to the other. These holes supported wooden beams which supported the verandah. This verandah gave the cave an upper floor which however now has no existence and is assumed to have collapsed over time.

The verandah extended to around eight feet and covered the main cave as well as extended out of the cave. The main chamber of the cave was protected by the verandah as an extension.

This is the cave that is associated with the hidden gold treasure theory. Much of this has to do with its name which people by default have assumed has hidden treasures. So much so that the British once tried to blow up a section of the wall inside the cave with a cannon which people often think of as a secret passageway to another room that has all the gold treasures hidden. The British were unsuccessful but the legend still lives on and to this date, people believe that a treasure full of gold awaits them beyond the walls of the cave. People in this town still believe that gold belonging to King Bimbisara and King Ajatashatru are still hidden in this cave and one needs to decipher the hidden messages to locate them.

The Section Inside The Cave Which Is Assumed To Have Been Covered Up To Protect The Gold Hidden Behind It

The smaller cave located on the right-hand side though small has some beautiful carved-out murals. This one has a width of twenty-two feet and a depth of seventeen feet. The cave has no roof on top now as it collapsed a long time ago. Like the bigger cave this one also once had a protruding verandah but nothing remains of that any longer. The cave in its almost entirety is exposed with the collapsed roof.

Calligraphy Outside The Smaller Cave On The Right
Entrance Of The Smaller Cave On The Right
The Smaller Cave On The Right – Interiors
The Smaller Cave On The Right – Interiors Without A Cover
The Smaller Cave On The Right – Entrance As Seen From Inside

If you look at the two caves from a distance you can make out that a steps-like structure once existed in between the two caves which gave the monks access to the upper floor above the verandah.

The Remains Of A Staircase In Between The Two Caves

On the south wall of this cave, one can see icons of six Jain Tirthankaras which also include Parswanatha, Padmaprabha, and Mahavira. There is another headless Buddha that one can see out here.

Headless Icon Inside The Small Cave On The Right
Six Jain Tirthankaras Inside The Small Cave On The Right
Six Jain Tirthankaras Inside The Small Cave On The Right
Two Of The Six Jain Tirthankaras Inside The Small Cave On The Right

How To Reach Son Bhandar

A bit of warning for tourists who are planning to visit Son Bhandar. This place has many Langurs and these can sniff out any food materials inside a bag. I have seen them snatch away food packets from tourists and also snatch away backpacks from tourists having food inside the bags. I would advise you not to carry food items with you during the trip around some of the tourist spots in Rajgir.

There are many ice cream and snack vendors outside the main gate selling eatables to tourists. The sellers know it very well the moment you buy something from them the Langurs will come running to snatch them away from your hand and then you have to buy again and this time the sellers will take out a stick and shoo away the langurs. It’s all part of their plan to make tourists buy the same thing twice from them.

If you are travelling by car then there is ample paid parking space outside the main gate. Most tourists usually travel around the Rajgir town in a pre-paid e-rickshaw or take a horse-drawn carriage. These e-rickshaws usually give tourists a timed full tour of the important tourist sites.

There is another tourist spot located very close to Son Bhandar known as the Battle Ground of Jarasandh (Jarasandh ka Akhada). You will find many e-rickshaw drivers approaching you for a round trip to this place from Son Bhandar. Do not fall for that trick as Battle Ground of Jarasandh is just around five hundred meters from Son Bhandar and can be easily done by walking.

Pathway Leading Towards Battle Ground of Jarasandh From Son Bhandar
Battle Ground of Jarasandh (Jarasandh ka Akhada)

Location Of Son Bhandar On Map

Video Of Son Bhandar

Other Blogs On Rajgir

Cyclopean Wall Of Rajgir
Hiuen Tsang Memorial Hall
Nalanda Mahavihara Archaeological Site

Resources

The Cave Temples of India by James Fergusson & James Burgess
Dainik Bhaskar
Amar Ujala

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