Our trip to Uzbekistan started from Tashkent and our next stop was Khiva. To travel there we opted for the slow night train as that was the logical choice. We saved on a night at a hotel and also saved some on the superfast trains. The slow train took us directly to Khiva, whereas most high-speed trains will only take tourists to Bukhara. Our guest house was booked at a place located within Itchan Kala which is the main center of attraction at Khiva.
History Of Khiva Itchan Kala
This a walled town located within a fortress which contains nearly fifty-one historic monuments. Most of the houses which are still occupied by its residents within this walled place are also historic. That is the reason why this place is known as the museum city.
It’s a rectangular section within the city of Khiva which is demarcated by an outer wall known as the Dishan-Qal’a and within that another high wall creates an enclosure that we now know as Itchan Kala. The area covered by Itchan Kala is around 75 acres and is guarded by a high wall made of clay and bricks reaching a height of 8 to 10 meters. The thickness of these walls is around 6 to 8 meters. The total length of these walls measures up to 2200 meters.
Originally the city dates back to the 5th century but what we now see is the later construction that happened primarily during the 17th and 18th centuries. Much of what we now see was added during the reign of Arang Khan between 1686 and 1688. He is credited with building the outer walls and the towers protecting Itchan Kala. However, as you read this blog, you will know that different rulers (Khan) contributed to the overall Itchan Kala that we see now.
There is a legend that is associated with this city, It is believed that the canal that was originally dug in this region was done by Shem, the son of Noah, thus having a direct Biblical connection. Another legend is that the Medina was built using the mud from Khiva.
Historically, caravans would have passed through this region before heading towards Persia (Iran) as this was part of the original Silk Route. Khiva was an oasis where traders would stop to rest themselves and their animals (camels). They would get food and shelter here and would also do some trading on their way to their final destination. This is also a reason why, in terms of language and food, we find a deep connection to India. I found it surprising how so many words in the Uzbek language have exact similarities with Bengali and Hindi. Traders not only traded goods but also exchanged ideas about words, language, and food.
How To Reach Khiva Itchan Kala
Itchan Kala is located in Khiva and to reach here you have several options. Khiva is well connected to all the major towns by train. High-speed train Afrosiyob connects from Tashkent to Bukhara and from there you can take a taxi. Regular day train and night trains connect from all the major cities to either Khiva or Urgench. Urgench is a big city and there are many trains connecting here, it’s located near Khiva and can be reached by taxi from the station.
Urgench also has an international airport, so you can connect from Tashkent to Urgench using regional airlines.
From Khiva train station, Itchan Kala takes around fifteen minutes by taxi. Just outside the train station, you will find several taxis alternately, you can ask your guest house or hotel to send you a taxi. If they send you a taxi for pick up from Khiva station then it will cost you more. Ask the hotel or guest house beforehand how much it might cost by taxi so it’s easy to negotiate. I found the taxi rates as standard and I did not have to bargain.
Where To Stay in Khiva – Itchan Kala
There are several homestays and hotels within the walled city of Itchan Kala and personally, I would always recommend that, as you can experience all the tourist sites within Itchan Kala just by walking around. There are also hotels available right outside the Itchan Kala and in Urgench.
Another advantage of staying within Itchan Kala is that you can spend more time here, especially in the evening hours when the whole city is lit up and it looks stunning.
How Many Days To Spend in Khiva
You can cover all the major and important tourist places within Itchan Kala within a day that is if you start in the morning by around 9 AM and roam full day. But if you want to do the whole experience at a leisurely pace then give it two days.
At night the place is lit up with lights and becomes magical thus keeping the evening free for a short walk around the walled city.
There are some interesting places near Khiva which you can do as a day trip like that of Khorezm Fortresses. So, I would recommend something between two to three days for Khiva.
How To Enter Itchan Kala
This is a ticketed place and right outside the main gate, you will find a ticket counter from where you can purchase the entry ticket. The prices are different for the citizens of Uzbekistan and foreigners. For students below the age of 18, there are concessions. Please carry a valid student ID card to avail of this discount.
The ticket cost (foreigners) which is valid for 48 hours, was 1,50,000 Som (2023). Please check locally for updated ticket prices.
Places To Visit In Itchan Kala
Itchan Kala West Gate
Caravan Monument
Kalta Minor
Muhammed Amin Khan Madrasah
Kuhna Ark
Muhammad Rahim Khan Madrasah
Juma Mosque
Islam Khoja Madrasah
Islam Khoja Minaret
Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
Shergazi Khan Madrasah
Ak Mosque
Kutlug Murad Inaq Madrasah
Alla Kouli Khan Madrassah
Alla Kouli Khan Caravanserai
Toshhovli Palace
Madrasah of Muhammad Amin Inaq
Itchan Kala at Night
Nurullaboy Palace
Apart from the above list, there are several other places also. This place has fifty-one places of interest but not all of them are must visit. The above list should be enough to cover the best that this place has to offer.
Itchan Kala West Gate
The walled city of Itchan Kala has four main gates which are named after their position.
Bogcha Gate – North
Polvon Gate – East
Tosh Gate – South
Ota Gate – West
Out of these, the Ota Gate (West) is the main gate for tourists. This gate is located next to the Kalta Minor and the ticket counter for tourists to enter can be found right outside this gate.
Caravan Monument
This is not a historic installation but instead a modern one depicting the ancient trade practices followed around here. This installation showcases camels carrying goods that used to stop at Khiva when it was part of the Silk Route. This is a good place to click a selfie and start your tour across Itchan Kala.
Kalta Minor
As you enter Itchan Kala the first thing that you are going to see is the Kalta Minor. This is a minaret covered in blue, green, and turquoise tiles. Unlike the other large minarets, this is a rather smaller one and looks to have been abruptly cut off at the top.
Construction of this minaret was started by Muhammad Amin Bahadur Khan in the year 1852. He was the then ruler of Khiva and after his sudden death in the year 1855, the construction of the minaret was stopped.
Muhammad Amin Bahadur Khan was the seventh Khan (ruler) of the Uzbek Kungrat Dynasty. This dynasty ruled the Khanate of Khiva.
The minaret now stands with a base diameter of 14.5 meters and rises to a height of 29 meters. Originally it was planned to rise to a height of around 80 meters with the diameter at the top being less than that of the base. There are wooden staircases inside where one can reach the top. Tourists are not allowed inside the tower.
Muhammed Amin Khan Madrasah
This building is located right next to the Kalta Minor and after its construction was one of the largest madrasah of its time. The madrasah was constructed by Muhammad Amin Bahadur Khan between 1851 – 1955. At the moment this is a luxury hotel and guests can stay here to get an unparalleled view of Itchan Kala.
Kuhna Ark
On the opposite side of the Madrasah is the massive Kuhna Ark. This is a fortress within the Itchan Kala complex so it’s safe to say that this place is a fortress within a fortress. This fortress was constructed by Arang Khan during his reign between 1686 to 1688 but it quickly fell to the hands of the Persian invaders who had raised this place to the ground.
This place was rebuilt by Inaq Iltuzer who ruled between 1804 – 1806 followed by his successors Muhamamad Rahim Khan I and Allah Quli Khan.
This is one of the largest structures with Itchan Kala and will take the maximum time to cover. Once you enter through the main gate you will see the open courtyard.
On the right of the main entrance is the summer mosque which was built in 1838. Next to the mosque is the museum which gives the visitors a history of the Qungrat Dynasty. On the northeast corner of the courtyard, one can find the mint.
The most interesting building in the ark is the Throne Room which dates to 1804 – 1806. The beautifully blue front façade and the interior with green hue are truly remarkable.
Next to that is the center of the courtyard which is marked by a is a raised circular platform. It is believed that the Khan used to use this platform to address people.
Take a small winding almost dark winding staircase and you will reach the top of the building which is known as the Ak Sheikh Bobo. This is the highlight of this building as from here you have the best panoramic view of Itchan Kala.
Apart from these, there were harems and other rooms used by the Khan and his family. The ark acted as a walled citadel encompassed within the walled city thus offering double protection.
Now if you come back to the main entrance, you will find a small room known as Zindon which was the prison. Opposite the main gate, you will find a large well where locals and visitors throw money. I was not sure as to why this was done but as a symbolic gesture, I also dropped in some Indian currency.
Muhammad Rahim Khan Madrasah
Located opposite the Kuhna Ark is the Muhammad Rahim Khan Madrasah. This place was built by Sayyid Muhammad Rahim Bahadur Khan II between 1871 and 1876. He had ruled Khiva between 1863 – 1910. It was during his time that Khiva was annexed into Russia.
This building has now been converted into a museum showcasing the history of Khiva and its Khan.
Juma Mosque
This is one of the largest mosques within Itchan Kala and it’s unique in every sense. Constructed originally around the tenth century the original building was replaced by the one that we see now in 1788 – 1789. The rebuilding of the mosque was done during the rule of Muhammad Amin-Inakh who ruled Khiva during 1763 – 1791.
The mosque’s interior is stunning with its 212 wooden columns that support a flat roof. 24 of these columns are dated around the 10th – 16th century.
On the exterior of the mosque, there is a tower that rises to a height of 47 meters. This tower at the moment is not accessible to tourists (2023).
Islam Khoja Madrasah
This is our next stop and it’s located a short walk from the Juma Mosque. This is one of the newest construction within Itchan Kala dating back to the start of its construction in 1908 and completed in 1910. As the name suggests it was built by Islam Khoja who happens to be the father-in-law and chief vizier (prime minister) of the Khiva ruler Isfandiyar Khan.
One can visit the interiors of this building and walk around the courtyards. The building also houses the Khorazm Applied Art Museum.
Islam Khoja Minaret
Right outside the madrasah is the tallest minaret in Khiva rising to a height of 56 meters. Tourists can go up the minaret for a top view for an additional ticket which can be purchased from the ticket office located at the base.
Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
This is the last resting place of Pahlavon (wrestler) Mahmud who was considered as the piri (saint) and lived between 1247 – 1326. After his death, this place was not as opulent as we now see it was built much later.
He was a poet, craftsman, philosopher, and wrestler. He was much respected in his lifetime, and after his death people started to worship him as a saint. The Khans of Khiva built this place up and turned it into a magnificent structure with a blue dome. The most striking feature of this place is its interiors.
You need to buy a separate ticket to enter this place and is not covered by the ticket that you buy to enter Itchan Kala.
Shergazi Khan Madrasah
Every story has a dark chapter, and out here this is like one of the dark phases wherein the madrasah was built with the blood and sweat of slaves.
Shergazi Khan took the throne in 1741, and during his reign, he managed to capture many soldiers during various battles. These soldiers were brought back to Khiva as slaves and were ordered to build the madrasah.
Construction started in the year 1719 and the Khan promised the slaves they would be freed once the madrasah was completed. The main building was built in a year but the Khan started to delay their releases by adding something or the other to the building’s construction plan.
By 1728 almost nine years after the construction had been started by the slaves they had enough of him and he was assassinated at that very madrasah when he had come there to inspect the work.
Ak Mosque
This mosque was built between 1838 – 1842 during the reign of Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan. This mosque was built on top of the foundation of an earlier 17th-century mosque.
Kutlug Murad Inaq Madrasah
This madrasah was built by Kutluk Murad Inaq, who in relation was the uncle of Alla Kuli Khan, the ruler of Khiva between 1825 – 1842. The madrasah is located on the opposite side of Shergazi Khan Madrasah. Construction of this madrasah started in 1804 and lasted till 1812.
Alla Kouli Khan Madrassah
This Madrasah was constructed by Alla Kouli Khan between 1834 and 1835. Adjacent to that is the Caravanserai, which was constructed to house the travelers.
Alla Kouli Khan Caravanserai
This is located right next to the Alla Kouli Khan Madrassah and was built to house the traders of the Silk Route who passed through Khiva. This acted as a place for them to rest and trade.
Toshhovli Palace
This was built by Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan during 1830 -1841. Decorated beautifully in the traditional blue tiles the whole palace has multiple rooms. A notable section to check out is the main courtyard. Its design and build are similar to the throne room of Kuhna Ark. During my visit in 2023, this section was temporarily closed for renovations.
Madrasah of Muhammad Amin Inaq
Muhammad Amin Inaq built this madrasah in 1785.
Itchan Kala at Night
I will highly recommend you go for a short walk once the sun goes down, the whole of Itchan Kala turns magical.
Nurullaboy Palace
This place is located outside the Itchan Kala complex, a ten-minute walk from the west gate will take you to this place.
This palace was built by Muhammad Rakhim Khan II, who lived from 1845 to 1910. He wanted to build a new palace and saw a lovely garden belonging to a person named Nurullabay. He agreed to sell the land on the condition that the palace be named after him. The Khan agreed and built his summer palace here.
What To Eat At Itchan Kala
There are several cafes and restaurants within Itchan Kala that you can check out. These range from affordable to very expensive. Another best option would be to check out the several restaurants located right outside the main gate of Itchan Kala. Prices are a bit cheap when compared to the ones located inside.
You will get all the traditional food like Polov, Shashlik (Kebab), Manti, Samsa, Lagman, and of course Non (Naan). Do try the sweet dishes like Baklava, Chak Chak, etc.
Shopping At Itchan Kala
Pricing-wise wise I found it cheapest here across Uzbekistan. If you are planning to buy some memorabilia, then this is the best place to get them. From dolls, fridge magnets, garments, bags, traditional hats, pottery, and jewelry you will get them all here. You can bargain a bit if you are buying a lot of items, always ask for the best price and you will be surprised how the prices drop.
Location Of Itchan Kala On Map
Vlog On Itchan Kala
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