Like many, the pandemic lockdown was a big shock and somehow, I had to get over the season of no assignments and work from home. So, to get over the boredom I made a list of places that can be visited on a day trip. One of them was Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery, for some strange reason I kept avoiding this place coz the name gave me the creeps. So, it was not ironic that this place was one of the last places that I had visited along with a friend at almost the end of the pandemic season which was around October 2021.
Navigating in Howrah (Ghusuri) that too on a motorcycle can be challenging as the GPS on the mobile often cannot tell me if the road is a narrow lane with barely enough space for the motorcycle to pass through or if the road is wide enough for two trucks. Somehow, I managed to navigate through lanes and by lanes before reaching a laborer’s quarters and the small concrete lane just happen to pass through it.
I was kind of reluctant and luckily found a lady who knew the family had the key to the main gates and confidently told us to enter the premises without any hesitation.
The main temple was the only place that was in slightly better condition whereas the rooms in the adjacent building were almost crumbling down. The same sorry state was seen in the temple-style memorials which surrounded the property.
History of Bhot Bagan
Calcutta being Calcutta true to its nature had adopted various communities around the globe so why not adopt another community who called this place their home? Bhot Bagan is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and why the Tibetans had to set up a monastery out here is a story in itself.
Bhot Bagan monastery was founded by Puran Gir Goosain as a direct request from the Tashi Lama of Tibet. Back then East India Company was constantly trying to expand its reach in the subcontinent and at the same time was facing stiff resistance from Tibetan states on the northern front of Bengal.
The story however did not start in Tibet but started in the princely kingdom of Bhutan. In 1772 the chief of Bhutan invaded Kuch Behar (Cooch Behar). With no help in sight and under pressure the maharaja approached Warren Hastings for military aid. With additional force, the Bhutanese army was completely destroyed and pushed beyond the borders. In exchange, Hasting had made the Maharaja take half of the kingdom’s revenue and also join Bengal to remain protected.
The Bhutanese chief (Depa Shidar) immediately got in touch with the Tibetan chief Tashi Lama (Lobsang Palden Yeshe) 6th Panchen Lama who was then the guide to the minor Dalai Lama to intervene. A delegation from Tibet was sent to Calcutta in 1773 along with a letter for Warren Hastings. The delegation reached Calcutta and the letter was received by Hastings on the 29th of March 1774.
A treaty was signed between the Bengal Government and Bhutan on the 27th of April 1774. The treaty highlighted that Bhutan return all the prisoners of war and in return, they keep enjoying duty-free trade as they used to.
To mediate further trade talks with Tibet Warren Hastings on the 13th of May 1774 appointed George Bogle who along with Dr. Alexander Hamilton and Puran Gir Gossain traveled to Tibet to meet (Lobsang Palden Yeshe) 6th Panchen. The delegation reached Lhasa on the 8th of November 1774.
The Lama as a sign of peace and non-hostility requested Hastings to allot him land in Calcutta where he would set up a monastery for the faithful to come to meditate and pray. The request was forwarded through the hands of George Bogle to Warren Hastings.
Back in Calcutta Hastings orders the purchase of 100 (upward of 150 as per some record) acres of land to set up the monastery by Hastings. The land was purchased on the other side of the Hooghly facing the river at Howrah (Ghusuri). Once the construction of the temple and the monastery was completed Hastings personally sent a message to the Lama informing him of this.
On June 1776 the temple at Bhot Bagan was consecrated (blessed and made active). The main deity of the temple back then was Mahakal. The Lama from Tibet had sent lots of valuables like paintings, idols, carpets, etc. for the temple.
The deeds of the land were registered in the name of Puran Gir Gossain who acted as a dispel and representative of the Lama in 1778.
Over the year Puran Gir Goosain became like a liaison between the Tibetan kingdom and the company in Calcutta. He was respected and revered and thus it can be seen that many governors after Hastings had kept a steady visit to Bhot Bagan. In future diplomatic missions to Tibet Puran Gir Goosain was sent as a representative of the company.
The temple became a place for traders from Tibet to come and rest when they would come to Calcutta for trade. All around the temple premises small cottages would be constructed for the traders to rest.
Puran Gir Goosain was killed in the year 1795 when the temple compound was attacked by dacoits, he had successfully managed to save the temple but got himself killed in the process. The main idol of Mahakal was however lost and never found again. After his death, his follower Daljit Gir Gosain took over the reins of the temple.
Over the years the property hold of the temple shrunk and with limited or no maintenance the main building started to fall apart and became inhabitable.
The Mahant tradition also ceased to exist beginning of the 20th century and now the locals manage the temple and do the necessary cleanups.
What To See In Bhot Bagan
The name Bhot has nothing to do with Bhut (ghosts) which many people mistake with. The Tibetans refer to their land as Bhod from which we get Bhot and Bagan which means garden. So, in short, this is a Tibetan Garden Temple.
If you find the main gates of the temple compound closed simply knock and enquire on the house located opposite the main gate. They know the person having the key to the temple.
The vast area around the temple is densely covered in grass and shrubs, the local children often use this as a playground. The main double-story heritage structure is in a dire state and is inhabitable. The roofs almost collapsing and the walls crumbling.
The main temple however is in a relatively better state. The temple cannot be exactly called a Buddhist temple anymore as we can see a seamless mix of Hinduism in the form of Shiva Linga placed inside the temple.
The main deity which has been secured within an iron grill box is that of Tara. She is referred to as the female form of Buddha. This was one of the idols that once had occupied this temple and with the loss of the Mahakal idol, this started being worshiped.
On the eastern side of the property right next to the temple compound, one can see four small temple-like structures and another one is placed northeast side of the temple. These are tombs of Mahants who had served this temple. On the western side of the property at a distance, one can also see two more such structures but a lot bigger, these have now been converted into two Shiva temples.
As per traditions Mahants who were considered Sadhus are never cremated instead, they are buried in a seated position. The place where the dead Mahants were buried was later covered up to resemble traditional Bengal temples. Traditionally people would also offer prayers at these spots remembering them.
How To Reach Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery
The best way is by your vehicle be it a car or motorcycle. Two-wheelers have the advantage of easily navigating the small lanes. Just follow the map given below and you will reach the destination. Remember that this is a functioning temple that especially becomes active during Shivratri thus plan accordingly. The locals mostly refer to this temple as Mahakal Temple.
Location of Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery on Map
Resources
Bengal: Past and Present, Vol-02, Issue no – January-June
Buddhist Monastery at Bhot Bagan (Howrah) by Gaur Das Bysack
Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal 1832 by Asiatic Society
Howrah District
Royal Collection Trust
British Library UK
John Hopkins University
West Bengal Heritage Commission