I have written a few blogs about Jews and synagogues of Kolkata so when I was traveling across Uzbekistan and had heard about the Bukhara Jews then I made sure to build that into my travel schedule. Bukharan Jews were once legends of this city and still have its presence in limited form. There are two synagogues in this city along with a Jewish Cemetery and a school.
History Of The Bukhara Jews
At the moment, there are around 150 to 200 Jewish residents in Bukhara, the number was not so grim earlier, and once the number was as high as 40,000. Post 1972 the Soviet government started allowing Jewish people to leave the Soviet states and go to Israel to settle down, this started the exodus, and post-independence of Uzbekistan further migration took place fearing the uncertainty in the new nation.
Bukhara as we all know was once part of the Silk Route and trade often brings people from around the world. The Jewish population in this region of Central Asia came into existence when around 500 BC
There are various trajectories as to the origins of Bukhara Jews while Bukhara was a part of the Silk Route a big chunk of Jews from around the Arab world came to settle down here. Some believe in order to escape the Persian King Peroz I (458–485 CE) they migrated to Central Asia. The most common belief is that what they get from Old Testament II Kings 17:6 (reading of “Habor”) which mentioned that the Jews of Bukhara were exiles from the tribes of Naphtali and Issachar when they were in Assyrian captivity.
History Of Bukhara Synagogues
Once this thriving community had around 13 synagogues in Bukhara but after the migration of the majority of the population currently this city has 2 synagogues.
The synagogue near the tourist landmark of Lyabi Khause Ensemble is the most popular one and has a history that is very interesting.
The story goes like this when Lyabi Khause Ensemble (1621 – 1622) was being built by Nadir Divan Begi he wanted to have a large water reservoir next to the mosque instead of a small one. The only challenge was that the land where he wanted to build the reservoir belonged to a Jewish widow who refused to let go of her land even after being offered a good sum of money.
No persuasion could solve this until Nadir Divan Begi along with his close confidants hatched a plan and built a canal in front of the widow’s house which led to a steady flow of water. This caused the soil around the windows house to give way and crumble, and with no other choice in view, she agreed to give the land.
There was a catch however that instead of money she would be given a plot of land very near to her old plot so that a synagogue could be built for the Jewish community. Once the synagogue was built the old widow continued to live on the first floor of the synagogue till her death.
What To See At Old Bukhara Synagogue
The synagogue is very much present at the same location and located very near to Lyabi Khause Ensemble. One can still see the water reservoir and the water channels.
A small door on the lane will take you inside the synagogue with rooms on either side. One will be able to see the typical interiors of a synagogue like Torah ark where the Torahs are stored, the Bimah which is a raised platform from where the Torah is read, etc. There are two such rooms here the bigger one on the ground floor and the smaller one on the first floor.
This synagogue is also known by the name Kanisa Mulla Mani which is the name of the foreman who served at the synagogue around the mid-20th century.
Nomozo Street Synagogue
This is the other synagogue in Bukhara located in the old Jewish quarter. This synagogue is located very near to the Jewish Cemetery.
Location Of Bukhara Synagogues On Map
Old synagogue on 20 Saffron Street
New synagogue on Nomozo Street
Vlog Of The Old Bukhara Synagogue
Other Blogs On Bukhara
Zindon Prison Bukhara
Ark Of Bukhara
Poi Kalon Complex
Chor Minor
Sitorai Mokhi Khosa Palace
Chor Bakr