The journey starts

As per our plan our journey would start on 4^thof March evening, the next day being Holi there was a small celebration in our office in the evening so me and my colleague Sudipto managed to sneak out early. Amitabha would be directly reaching the station from his house. We took a bus to Babu Ghat and took a Launch (boat) across Hoogly River. It was quite crowded as most people were returning home for Holi vacation.

We reached Ranchi the next morning at 5 AM and the moment we got out we felt the chill in the air. It was colder than the winter we face in Kolkata. Luckily all of us had packed in warm clothes and we were well equipped to face the cold.

We took an auto from outside the station to first reach my In Law’s house to freshen up. The house is right behind MS Dhoni’s house at Harmu so navigating was quite easy for the Auto driver and within ten minutes we were at our destination. We took bath and freshened up as the car was scheduled to arrive at 8 AM so we diced to have our breakfast also.

En Route to Betla – This Stretch Is At Kuru

Local Women with Their Daily Chores

Latehar

Latehar – The Trees Look Gold from the Afternoon Sun

Approaching Daltonganj

We took a left turn towards Betla once we reached Daltonganj. A big gate welcomed us to Betla and after driving few kilometres we crossed Kechki (confluence of North Koel and Auranga rivers). This meant that our adventure has finally started as we are now within our travel plan. We stopped by Kechki and took numerous photos of the bridge and its surroundings.

Kechki – Looking Towards North Koel from the Bridge

By now we were hungry like tigers and quickly dumped our bags in our room and went to the dining room. Lunch was simple with rice, daal, potato fries and an option of egg curry or mixed vegetables. Post lunch we decided to go to Betla fort. We had informed Aftab earlier so he was ready to take us to our destination. To go to the fort you need to buy a ticket from the Betla Forest office. They charge Rs. 150 per vehicle, guide charges are additional and optional.

Palamu Fort…s

History

The erection at Palamau of teh older of the two forts which form the only places of historical interest in the District is ascribed to him; the other, which was never completed, was begun by his son. These Rajas apparently ruled as indipendent princess till between 1640 and 1660, when the Muhammadans made several attacks on them and forced them to pay tribute. In the latter year occurred the attack on Palamau fort and its capture by Daud Khan, which forms the subject of a large picture (30 feet by 12) preserved by Daud’s descendants and described in detail by Colonel Dalton in the Journal, Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1874. 

In 1722 the ruling Raja, Ranjit Rai, was murdered, and Jay Kishan Rai, descended from the younger son of a former Raja, was placed upon the throne. A few years afterwards Jay Kishan was shot in skirmish, and his family fled to Megra in Bihar. Here they took refuge with one Udwant Ram, a Kanungo, who in 1770 took Gopal Rai, grandson of the murdered Raja, to Patna and presented him to Captain Camac, the Government Agent, as the rightful heir to the Palamau Raj. Captain Camac promised the assistance of the British Government and, after defeating the troops of the ruling Rajas gave a sanad for five years to Gopal Rai and two of his cousins. From this time Palamau was included in the British District of Ramgarh. 

A year or two later, Gopal Rai was sentenced to imprisonment for being concerned in the murder of the Kanungowho helped him to power. He died in Patna in 1784, and in the same year died Basant Rai, who had succeeded to the gaddi on his imprisonment. Churaman  Rai succeeded; but by 1813 he had become insolvent, and Palamau was sold for arrears of revenue and bought in by the Government for the amount due. Three years later old disturbances between the Kharwars and Cheros were renewed, and Palamau was given to the Deo family in Gaya as a reward for their services in helping to quell them. 

Some Details of the Forts

The forts are situated deep in the jungle of the forest reserve and repair work that has to be done for their preservation in the removal of the dense jungle growth that all but obstructs them. Substantial progress to this end was made in the previous two years against an estimate of Rs. 3557 but the work was far from complete and a sum of Rs. 1579 against a further estimate of Rs 4281 was spent during the year under review in constructing it. Great trees and thick jungle have been cleared from the encircling walls of the two forts and from a margin of some 10 feet along them both inside and out. Tall trees have been cut down and the work in hand aims at the removal of the great intertwining Pipal roots that spreads over and penetrate into them for unless they are removed the jungle will only spread again.

The conservation of the fort walls generally will be limited to the removal of this jungle for funds will not permit of their constructional repair. The main gates with their outworks and enclosed courts will however be kept up in sound structural condition. They are an interesting example of the fortifications of this period and the Nagpuri Gate of the New Fort has the further merit of being a particularly fine example of Early Mughal architecture. It is sadly ruined and almost everything but the actual archway itself has collapsed but such as remains is well worthy of preservation. The elaborate arabesques raised in relief of the outer facade of fine grained white sand stone are exquisitely wrought and are comparable with some of the best work at Agra.

Paths through the dense jungle in the interior of the forts have been cut and it is now possible to approach the remains of the several small palace buildings within the walls of the Old Fort. These buildings are generally too badly ruined to repair and it is proposed merely to keep them free of jungle and clear the debris from about them.

The Raja’s Kuchari on the New Fort is generally in better condition and a few minor repairs will be put in had for its preservation. A path cut through the thick jungle up the hill side to the entrance of the New Fort has greatly facilitated access to it and it is learned that the jungle clearance effected here has induced many more people to visit the remains than formerly. It is of course impossible to clear the whole area within the walls and no more will be attempted than to maintain free of jungle the paths and margins that have already been cleared. 

The small brick mosque situated close to the breach made in the wall of the Old Fort by the British in 1772 and through which one now enters the fort is also being preserved and the broken parapets and roof with its low triple dome are being made watertight and the undermined walls repaired.

Old Palamu Fort (Purana Quila)

Fort Walls and Tower As Seen From the Road

The fort is atop a small hill so you have to climb some steep hillside. It can be made out that originally there were stairs carved into the hill side but nature has taken its toll and most of them have completely vanished. I must also warn that some portion of the climb are pretty steep and very slippery.

Langurs You Will Find Them Everywhere

Once inside the fort you can see that the entire fort was well fortified with very high and thick walls with watch towers in every directions. These watch towers were very effective in watching advancing army in the distance. This I also the very reason why the Cheros had managed to repel so many attacks by the Mughal Generals.

Interiors of the Room

View from Top towards Betla Forest Range

Walkways On Top Of the Fortifying Walls

View of Auranga River from the Top of the Fort

The Centre of the Fort Completely In Shambles

Archway On Top Of the Fort Walls

Narrow Staircase Which Connects the Courtyard to the Top of the Fort

One needs to be extra careful when climbing down as there are high chances of slipping. All three of us slipped at least once while climbing down. Jokingly we called this incident “curse of the Cheros”.

Entrance to the Main Building

Stairs Leading From the Main Building to the Roof

Tunnel to the Roof

New Palamu Fort (Naya Quila)

Panoramic View of the New Fort

The main Nagopuri Gate is a true architect’s delight, the Minakari works can be still seen thus depicts the diversity of the Chero rulers in incorporation of architectural styles from across the country. 

Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort

Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort

Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort

Meenakari Design on the Nagpuri Gate

Mosque – North of the Nagpuri Gate

Once inside you come to the first holding area, on the left wall there is a small doorway that leads to the watch towers. One needs to assume that these were used by the soldiers to defend the fort when it came under attack. 

On the right you will find the entrance to the main courtyard of the fort. Surprisingly you will find another small mosque here. Looking at the position of this structure you can safely assume that this was built later as this particular structure is not in sync with the overall design of the fort. In most probability this was built after the conquest by Daud Khan.

Holding Area after the Nagpuri Gate

Mosque in the Courtyard

Interior of the Mosque

Interior of the Mosque

One of the Water Well

Inside of the Water Well

This fort will also take some considerable time to see through thus it’s recommended to give it a day if you really like old torn down structures with architectural value.

Second Gate inside the Fort

Design on the Wall

Second Well Inside the Fort

Passage Leading To the Watch Towers

Most Portions of the Watchtower Have Fallen Off

Remaining Watch Towers

Stairs Leading to the Top of Nagpuri Gate

Structures above Nagpuri Gate

Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls

Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls

View of the First Fort from the Second Fort

Busy Shooting

Many of the Broken Structures

A Two Storied Structure Still Standing Within the Fort

Interiors of the Two Storied Structure

Interiors of the Two Storied Structure

Interiors of the Two Storied Structure

An Unidentified Piece of Stone within the Two Stored Structure

Dinner at the hotel was served at 9.30 PM and we had the option of rice, daal, potato fry, mixed vegetable and chicken curry. Additionally you can also pre order evening snacks but for that you have to give them enough time to get it prepared.

We say Hello! To Koel…and Auranga

Betla to Kechki

One needs to take a detour from the main road and cross railway gate in order to reach the banks of the river. There is a Forest Rest House near the banks which has recently been renovated and can provide a very scenic view of the confluence.

A Diversion from the Main Road Takes You towards the River Banks

Rain Gate before You Approach Kechki

Goods Train Crossing

The Famous Kechki Forest Rest House

Bee Hives Are Everywhere

Kechki Looking Towards Auranga River

Kechki Looking Towards North Koel

Kechki

A Temple on the Banks of Kechki

The Hill Climb