Mazar e Ghalib – Grave of Mirza Ghalib


Grave of Mirza Ghalib (29)

After tracing Mirza Ghalib in my city of Calcutta (Kolkata) and then his last home in Old Delhi I now had the last task in hand that is to find the last resting place or the tomb of Ghalib. So one fine morning during one of my trips to the capital I force myself to wake up as early as possible and visit the grave. It was a beautiful Delhi morning and for a change, the smog in the air had somehow mysteriously settled and created an environment for the perfect ending to my journey.

Location of the Tomb

This was not that difficult when you search online as it shows right near to Nizamuddin Dargah. However, it’s better to approach the site from Mathura Road. You would have to get down on the main road since vehicles are not permitted inside the small lane. Since this road also leads you to the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin thus you would find many shops selling flowers, chadars, incense sticks etc. At times the shopkeepers can be quite intimidating but just ignore and move on. It’s just a hundred meters walk for the main road thus should not take you long.

On the way you will get a big mosque to your right called Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid, this should be your marker. Right opposite to the mosque you will find a building marked Ghalib Academy and right next to this you will see a huge gate-like structure. Just walk in straight and you will reach an open courtyard.

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (1)
This Lane Takes You towards Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin, The Tomb of Ghalib is in This Way Itself
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (2)
Large Vehicles Cannot Enter Thus You Need to Walk or Take a Rickshaw

 

Location of the Tomb on Map

 

Urs Mahal & Chausath Khamba

The grave of Mirza Ghalib also hides another important landmark that of Urs Mahal & Chausath Khamba. As you enter through the large wooden gate you will find yourself in the middle of a large courtyard. This is the Urs Mahal and you should not be surprised to see some travellers (mainly pilgrims) staying at one of the small rooms located at the corner.

By the look, you can clearly see that this place is meant for assembling or any large gatherings and can indeed fit many people. As I was entering a larger funeral procession was coming out from this place. This section is also famous for the numerous Qawwali concerts that get hosted here.

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (4)
Entrance to Urs Mahal
Entrance through This Gate and You Will Reach Urs Mahal the First Point
Entrance through This Gate and You Will Reach Urs Mahal the First Point
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (5)
The Door Has Its Own Story – Make Sure To Take Your Time to Marvel at Its Beauty
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (6)
Pilgrims Can Be Seen Resting At One of the Halls of Urs Mahal
Urs Mahal - Courtyard
Urs Mahal – Courtyard

Moving up ahead you will see a large stone structure with numerous pillars and with several tombs all located inside this building. This is what is known as Chausath Khamba or the building with sixty-four pillars. This splendid white marble building was built by Mirza Aziz Koka for himself who was also the foster brother of Akbar. Emperor Akbar had a wet nurse called Jiji Anga who was Mirza Aziz Koka’s mother.

Under Akbar, Mirza Aziz Koka was the governor of Gujarat. Things, however, were not the same under Jahangir and much of what he had achieved under Akbar was lost when he supported the rebellion by Khusrau Mirza who was the eldest son of Jahangir. After the death of Mirza Aziz Koka, he was buried here in the year 1624.

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (8)
Chausath Khamba – Exterior View
Chausath Khamba – Interiors
Chausath Khamba – InteriorsChausath Khamba – Interiors
Chausath Khamba – White Marble Structure with 64 Pillars
Chausath Khamba – White Marble Structure with 64 Pillars
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (11)
Chausath Khamba – Tombs
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (12)
Chausath Khamba – Tombs
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (13)
Chausath Khamba
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (14)
Chausath Khamba – Lattice Work
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (15)
Chausath Khamba – Some Graves Are Also Present Outside the Main Structure
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (17)
Chausath Khamba – Some Graves Are Also Present Outside the Main Structure
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (16)
Chausath Khamba – Loharu Section Can Be Seen Through the Lattice Window

 

Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb (Mazar-e-Mirza)

Located on the northern side of Chausath Khamba is the tomb of Mirza Ghalib. Just walk northwards and you will find a separate section with the tomb of Mirza Ghalib clearly visible which has a small enclosure or courtyard of its own. Mirza Ghalib was buried here after his death and there was just his grave and the stone structure over the site was built much later in the year 1955. Again with time this place got lost in memory and has been resurrected again around eight years back. Along with the tomb of Ghalib other structures such as Chausath Khamba and Urs Mahal were also restored.

The grave of Mirza Ghalib is well maintained with fresh flowers and incense sticks burning most part of the day which tells that someone is responsible for its regular maintenance. Opposite end of the courtyard a marble plaque has a Shayari engraved which were written by the poet himself.

What people usually fail to notice and the main reason is that it’s not marked properly is the grave of Umrao Begum who was the wife of the poet and died a year later after his death. Ghalib wed his wife Umrao Begum when he was thirteen years of age and then his wife was much younger thus they have spent most of their lives together and this must be the very reason why she wished to be buried next to the poet.

When the stone structure was built over Ghalib’s grave what got lost from view was his wife’s grave which can be seen right at the back of the structure covered with a green chaddar. They had been married for fifty-seven years.

This section of the graveyard was actually owned by the Loharu clan who were the noblemen from Rajasthan and the poet’s wife was the sister of the Nawab of Laharu.

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (18)
Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb (Mazar-e-Mirza) – Can Be Seen From Chausath Khamba
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (19)
Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb (Mazar-e-Mirza)
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (20)
Grave of Mirza Ghalib
Grave of Mirza Ghalib Can Be Seen Inside the Marble Structure
Grave of Mirza Ghalib Can Be Seen Inside the Marble Structure
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (22)
Grave of Mirza Ghalib with the Headstone
Grave of Mirza Ghalib with the Headstone
Grave of Mirza Ghalib with the Headstone
Mirza Ghalib’s Wife Grave Can Be Seen at the Back (Covered in Green Chaddar)
Mirza Ghalib’s Wife Grave Can Be Seen at the Back (Covered in Green Chaddar)

 

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (25)
Memorial Inscription – Na thakuchch to Khuda tha, kuchchnahota to Khuda hota, duboyamujhko hone ne, na hota main to kya hota (When nothing was, then God was there, Had nothing been, God would have been; My being has defeated me, Had I not been, what would have been)

 

 

Rabri?

While coming out from this place I was rather surprised to see people queuing up in front of a sweet shop located opposite to that of Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid selling possibly the best Rabri that I have ever eaten in my whole life…

Found people queueing at this shop for Rabri and my curiosity made me by 250 grams which cost me 100 Rs. A spoonful in my mouth and I knew why all these people were here.

I asked the shopkeeper the name of the shop and he simply smiled back and told me that the shop has no name and customers simply refer to the shop as “Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid kay samney wali dukaan“.

Grave of Mirza Ghalib (26)
Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid Kay Samney Wali Dukaan – Selling Sweets and Other Savouries
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (27)
Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid Kay Samney Wali Dukaan – Selling Sweets and Other Savouries
Grave of Mirza Ghalib (28)
Markaz Bangla Wali Masjid Kay Samney Wali Dukaan – Famous Rabri

This place is barely 100 meters from Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah thus when you are visiting this place you can also plan a visit to the dargah. This concludes my blog series on Mirza Ghalib; I hope you have liked them all. Keep visiting my site for more such adventure.

 

More Blogs on Mirza Ghalib

Ghalib Ki Haveli – House Of Mirza Ghalib in Delhi

When Mirza Ghalib Came To Kolkata

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